Chapter six-- Siena
Siena – San Domenico – WWII – Saint Catherine
Ciao. Buon giorno.
We sat in the cavernous church of San Domenico in Siena, church of Catherine, the town's 14th Century Patron Saint.
This is a huge church, although not as popular as the main Duomo not far from the city center.. San Domenico has a high open central nave, perhaps four stories to the ceiling. Rows of large Gothic windows line the left and right walls.
Sanctuaries are along the sides, leaving the knave open, standing room only for services. In one sanctuary, is the head of St. Catherine, her head tilted so she can see you enter or leave the church. Her thumb is in a special container.
How eerie is that?
As I sat there, looking up at the Gothic windows, I noticed some were clear and some were stained glass. Were the clear pane windows part of heavy repairs from World War II Allied bombings? It was the first evidence of the war I had witnessed.
Later research proved my observation correct.
Here you are in the midst of the greatest antiquities of the world, its greatest treasures, the heart and birth of the renaissance, the seat of western thought, where Allied bombers reigned hell on earth.
Even in Germany, how many ancient cities were laid to waste by the thousands of bomber runs, over and over and over? You have seen the pictures, complete and total destruction.
What a terrible, terrible irreplaceable loss.
Yet the human spirit rebuilds and replaces anew, and as tourists today, we visit the great treasures of genius, preserved and protected.
How many historic buildings of Siena were destroyed or damaged. How many Italians killed and wounded. How much history is now history?
A necessary victory at a terrible price.
It was in the summer of 1944. Mussolini was deposed and hung in the plaza in Milan. Italy switched sides, leaving Hitler to join the Allies. Hitler responded by pouring in German storm troopers to occupy hundreds of villages and cities. The Allies and Italian forces freed Rome,then advanced into Tuscany. In the course of the campaign, tens of thousands of soldiers died and thousands of civilians were executed by German Troops. Evacuating Florence, the Germans blew up the bridges crossing the Arno, sparing only the historic Ponte Vecchio, which you can cross today, intact from the war.
In a mountain village near Lucca, German troopers killed more than 500 residents, including men, women, children and elderly.
The Americans pressed on, clearing the Germans from the mountain passes. Today, monuments and cemeteries commemorate those events. One stands today and offers a Latin prayer: “Once enemies, now friends, let us pray for peace in the world.”
Now the armies are gone. Italians have their towns back. Only tourists invade.
We have seen many travelogues of Siena. What struck me first coming into the great plaza, or Campo, was its size. TV diminishes its scale. It is here where the Palio is raced, 10 mounts, three times around the square. Winner gets the bragging rights for a year for his contrada (neighborhood). Horses are brought into the church of the contrada, specially blessed to win.
It's a good sign too if the horse leaves a calling card.
It's medieval mayhem. Parades, lavish costumes, wagering, pomp and pageantry, a true medieval happening. There are no racing rules. Riders get bumped and thrown, but they still can win. The horse carries on to the finish line.
We are here in the campo, the medieval center of the city, pop 60,000. There are no cars. Streets are too narrow. And when you walk from parking, you notice the narrow streets, or alleys or passageways. (take your pick).
Coming out from the innards into the campo, you notice how big it is, arena size.. People gather in small groups, sidewalk cafes offer food and drink or the morning cappuccino. Who can resist the colorful window display of the gelato (ice cream)shop?
(Returning home, our first purchases was a cappuccino maker and a Bialetti moka express coffee maker).
Sienese describe the campo as the shape of the protective cloak of the virgin, joining St. Catherine of Siena as the city's patron saint.
The big church is the Duomo. It stands out with green and white striped marble exterior. You will see this same green and white marble church décor again as the facade of the famous Duomo in Florence. This church sits on Siena's highest point and dates to 1215. You can sit on its big steps in front, watch the tourists file by on the Piazza Duomo.
Go inside and enter a different world.
Inside are Michelangelo statues and Bernini sculptures to name a few.
Modest ticket prices to enter. Modest dress required.
Remember, when you enter the churches and sanctuaries, you are entering a religious building. Proper decorum and respect should be observed. Many churches have guards who constantly remind you: “No photo!. No photo! In smaller chapels, it's the little old ladies to run from. Take a photo and take life in your own hands Yet there are many without guards. In one church, we wandered way down into its lower innards, and never encountered anyone
If you have never entered these awesome churches, you are in for an epiphany of religious experience. It matters not your religious philosophy or belief or faith, these churches will move you..
Next Chapter 7. The sweet life.
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Ciao. Arrivederci
Next chapter on Tuesday, Aug. 7
