Chapter 2
Pienza
We have discussed the small town of Pienza, a few miles from Cretaiole, our agriturismo for the week in June 2011.
Let's talk about eating.
I am not sure if these pastas are specifically native to this area, but it was here that we were introduced to pici and calamarata shapes of pasta.
Pici is like a regular spaghetti but fatter. Amateur spaghetti eaters would either slurp the long strands, or chop them into tiny pieces.
Cowards.
Those of us of Italian heritage twist the long strands on a fork. Pici is a spaghetti, but its strands are quite thick. Back at Cretaiole, our agriturismo, one Wednesday afternoon we all helped make pici pasta, then Isabella's sauce made it into a fine meal.
So far, I haven't found pici anywhere in Tallahassee, although I admit, I haven' been looking too diligently for it.
The other pasta, introduced into some of the dishes we ordered in Pienza restaurants, was calamarata. I haven't found it in supermarkets, but you can get it at Fresh Market in Killearn area. Other places specialty may have it too.
The calamarata makes a good dish. Its oval, and of medium thickness, and only about an inch or so in length. It takes forever to get al dente. But once there, it's really good.
One thing you have to remember about pasta. Pasta is pasta. It comes in a variety of sizes and forms, but in the end, it's still pasta.
Pienza is part of the Siena Provence, part of the Val d' Orcia, an area which rigidly preserves its ancient and artistic heritage. We call it Tuscany.
Our hostess at Cretaiole, Isabella, told us they wished to make a small renovation in their farmhouse, to make a door from a window in one of the apartments. It would have been in the back of the structure, on the edge of the hill, beyond public view.
But the local architectural review committee said no, even that slight modification of the 1400s farmhouse would not be in keeping with historic preservation.
Pienza is a renaissance town and traces its history to the 7th century. In the 1400s, it was called Corsignano. In 1405, Silvio Piccolomini was born there who became Pope Pius II in 1458. It was he who transformed the city into the Pienza we visit today. The new pope continued to make his home here. He commission architect Bernado Rossellino to build the Duomo (church) a city hall and papal palace. All three buildings remain in use today. All buildings face the Pallazzo Piccolomini.
As most cities do across our planet, when something historically significant occurs in your town, you want to carry on the name and the tradition. So today, to honor Bernado Rossellino, you can now get a pizza at Rossellino's restaurant, plus other fine Italian cuisine on the menu..
You can visit the palace, see the pope's bedroom and library. Descendents lived here until 1968.
Wander the renaissance streets and alleys of Pienza. Grab a patio table, order a glass of wine at the tavern and watch the tourists wander Pallazzo Piccolomini. The commercial area has the usual shops – bakery, meats, souvenirs, restaurants, shoes, hats. Don't miss Mr. Zazzeri's grocery shop where you sample the famous pecorino sheep cheese. Mr. Zazzeri dips the cheese from a giant terracotta jar
Visit the Duomo and marvel at the interior décor and renaissance art works. Its interior is divided into three aisles with clustered pilars, arches and cross vaults, its facade of travertine stone. Travel the roads leading into town, see Pienza as it sits high upon a hill, surrounded by green fields.
If you are in one of the apartments in town or out, and have the desire to cook, there is a small chain of grocery stores throughout Italy. These little stores are about the size of an American convenience store, with tight isles and stuffed shelves. You go one way up and down the aisles, too narrow for two carts to pass. Shelves are stacked high. Each store has a resident butcher to cut meat to order. Don't handle the vegetables without sanitary gloves, weigh your pickings on the electronic scale, place the price label on your bag. If you don't, the cashier will send you back. You won't need a translation.
Beware, many Italians observe Siesta. Many shops close for the afternoon, usually 1-4 p.m., then reopen until about 8 p.m.
Here's your website: http://www.pienza.com/
Also google Pienza restaurants. You'll get a list of 24 entries. Click on each one, read their reviews, drool over the photos of their dishes. Good stuff.
Also, Pienze is part of the five towns of the Val d'Orcia which also includes the towns of Quirico d'Orcia, Montecino, Castiglione d'Orcia and Radicofani. Interesting reading about this area during WWII is War in the Val d'Orcia 1943-1944 by Iris Origo, who kept a diary during this time. Purchase the book through http://www.abebooks.com/ for less than $10.
My livelihood depends on you visiting my personal website: http://www.jamesellistonsmith.com/ (james elliston smith) Click on the blue words, then click on the link, which takes you to it.Thanks.
Jim
